Tuesday, September 15, 2020

Remove Sticky Rubber from electronics


 

  • I hate electronics especially mice covered in that grippy rubber that we all know eventually turns into a sticky mess.  Here is how to remove it.
  • Above pictured is an original Razer Orochi bluetooth gaming mouse.  It still works fine but the entire surface was a sticky mess.
  • You will need:
    • Some finger/toe brushes.  I guess a toothbrush would work too
    • Goo Gone Adhesive Remover
    • Baking Soda
    • Isopropyl Alcohol - I used 70% but I'm sure higher would work fine.
    • Gloves
    • Rags, paper towels.
  • Add just a little water to some baking soda until it has a consistency of toothpaste.
  • Start with some goo gone.  Spray 2-3 times on a folded paper towel.  Thoroughly wipe the sticky rubbery surface. Scrub it with the brush vigorously.
  • Next, dip your brush into the baking soda paste and scrub the surface again.
  • Finally, wet a folded paper towel with the alcohol and remove all the remaining rubber.
  • Repeat everything again as many times as need to completely remove all the rubber.  Usually twice should be enough.
  • In the above picture I scrubbed really hard with the alcohol and removed some of the plastic I think but the point is the mouse is nice and smooth now and still works great.
  • Isopropyl Alcohol can be absorbed through the skin so gloves would be a good idea.

Monday, September 14, 2020

Handheld Game Consoles


  • I just got nostalgic and decided to get all my handhelds together for a group photo.  Most are in great condition with screen protectors and cases so no scratches.
  • I thought I still had my MicroVision but I'm having issues locating it.  I'll update if I find it.
  • Top row (left to right)
    • Game Boy
    • Game Boy Pocket
    • Game Boy Color
    • Game Boy Advance
    • Game Boy Advance SP
    • Game Boy Micro
  • Second Row
    • Nintendo DS
    • Nintendo DS Lite
    • Nintendo DSi
    • Nintendo 3DS
    • Nintendo 3DS XL with Circle Pad Pro
  • Third Row
    • Sega Nomad with the battery pack that clips on the back holding 6XAA
    • Game Gear with the TV tuner adapter, Sega Master System adapter, and magnification lens
    • PSP
    • PS Vita
  • Bottom Row
    • Nintendo Switch
    • Game.com

Thursday, August 27, 2020

Raspberry pi 4 Laptop / SBC Mobile Workstation


Lots more photos

https://youtu.be/aoa6KEVt-g8

  • Goals:
    • Build a dirt cheap raspberry pi 4 laptop or really just a mobile workstation for any sort of single board computer (SBC).
    • No permanent modification to any of the parts so it can be easily disassembled and used for other purposes or projects.
    • Completely battery powered.
    • Large screen.
    • Use as many parts as I could that I already had lying around.
  • Parts:
  • Details:
    • It took forever to find a box the right size.  It is 14X9X2 which pretty much fits everything perfectly.
    • I had already owned everything else on the parts list before starting this project except for the plastic box, monitor, and the dremel.  I wanted a new dremel and monitor anyways.  So I'd say I dedicated $12 specifically to this project.  The monitor makes a nice secondary monitor for a regular laptop or a bigger screen for Nintendo Switch.
    • It weighs about 5.5 lbs total.  
    • I wanted a large 15.6 screen.  Portability was secondary.  I'm getting old and small screens are much harder on the eyes for me.
    • My dremel skills are horrible, and the cuts are really rough.  I didn't really care about looks that much.
    • I cut the corners off the velcro dots so they fit better on the corners of the lid.
    • Make sure you put the soft side of the dots on the monitor cover (both the side to attach to the box and the inside for the keyboard)
    • You can open the box with the monitor still attached.  Just be careful it doesn't flop backwards hard.
    • I used elastic cord to keep everything together when moving it around.  You could just as easily add some more velcro dots instead.
    • Cutout on the left for easy access to ethernet and usb ports.  Cutout on the right to get to the battery so I can unplug the monitor and rpi 4 to save battery.  I had a little usb-c power switch dongle that worked great with an ac adapter but doesn't seem to work with this battery.  So I just unplug everything from the battery on the right side when not in use.  I can also easily charge the battery through the cutout.
    • I have 2 dividers attached together with duct tape and cut down half height.  I use it to separate the rpi 4 and the battery so I can plug cables into the battery without pushing it into the case.  It's half height so cables can still be laid on top.
    • I routed the cables out and back in the back side of the case for micro hdmi and usb-c power to the rpi 4 to prevent bending the cable so much.
    • Temps stay under 60c under load.
    • Lots of room for improvements.  I need to find a better way to stabilize the monitor cover hinge.  Still, it works pretty well on your lap for the most part.
    • Typing is a little cumbersome mostly because of how thick it is.
    • Totally NOT worth building from scratch.  You can easily get a real laptop that is a lot more portable and usable for the money.

Thursday, May 24, 2018

iPhone 7 plus Mount for Honda Civic Si 2018


Lots more photos:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/DjdbcNq9LiIXSU2j1

Items used:
Amazon Basics Case for iPhone 7 plus
TechMatte CD Car Mount

That's all you really need for a basic magnetic mount.  Use the big square metal plate and put it inside the case.  See this post for more info.  I didn't think the CAW CAR was needed.  It worked just fine with just the TechMatte.

More advanced with wireless charging:
Wireless Charging Receiver Module
Renbon Magnetic Wireless Car Charger Mount

So the nice thing about the wireless car charger mount is it comes with a metal ring that you can mount inside your case around the wireless charging receiver module.  It also comes with an optional sticky base mount.  So what I did was take the round metal plate from the TechMatte, peal off the back end to expose the adhesive, do the same on the bottom of the Renbon base, and stick the round metal plate to the base.  What I've done now is created a nice metal base plate for the Renbon base.  Now I just stick the Renbon base to the TechMatte magnetically.  NOTHING PERMANENT!  Nothing sticking to the car.  Easy to remove.  Doesn't directly block my vents and covers less of the screen and is nicely in view at a good angle.

So it's techmatte wedged behind the infotainment screen, then the Renbon base has a metal plate stuck to the bottom and is magnetically attached to the techmatte, the renbon charger is then clipped to the base.  It works pretty well but there are some things I don't like about it.  The whole thing seems to be pretty sturdy and the phone or the mounts won't come flying off even with spirited driving and you can wireless charge while it is mounted BUT the whole thing shakes a bit more than I like.  The ball and socket on the Renbon doesn't have enough friction.  The Rebon clip sometimes starts to work its way out of the base.  Sometimes (but not often) you have to unplug and replug the renbon to get it charging again.  It's not easy to gain back access to the lightening port so that means no easy car play.  I use an anker wireless charging pad and stand in the house and those work fine with the wireless charging receiver module.

All in all I'm not sure it's worth converting an older iPhone like mine to have wireless charging.  It will be much better when I get a new phone later this fall with built in wireless charging.  So for now I think just having the techmatte mount is definitely worth getting.

Monday, April 23, 2018

Acuity Pedal Spacer






Just installed an acuity pedal spacer. I can really tell the difference. It’s so much easier to blip the throttle while braking. Time to get good at this heel toe business. I used position C.